Description
Heliosoft INCI Behenyl Alcohol and Glyceryl Behenate and Lecithin is a 100% natural origin O/W lamellar emulsifier from rapeseed and sunflower.
You can also add it to formulas as a co-emulsifier or skin feel enhancer, giving formulators a high flexibility to create very fluid to thick textures. The phospholipids give it strong active properties as well.
Heliosoft INCI Behenyl Alcohol and Glyceryl Behenate and Lecithin keeps the skin moisturised and repairs damaged skin by quickly restoring the barrier function. It enhances bioavailability and penetration of active ingredients for improved efficacy. It is therefore the ideal emulsifier to create emulsions dedicated to sensitive skin.
Key Benefits:
– 100% natural origin content, COSMOS-approved, Vegan
– Contains sunflower phospholipids and fatty esters and alcohols from rapeseed oil
– Light, non-tacky and non-greasy after skin feel
– Mild emulsifier and biomimetic lamellar structure
– Damaged skin reparation
– No soaping effect
– Quick absorption
– Enhances the bioavailability of active ingredients
– Compatible with all kinds of oil phases, UV filters, pigments, low concentrations of electrolytes and most preservative system
Formulation guideline:
Heliosoft INCI Behenyl Alcohol and Glyceryl Behenate and Lecithin should be introduced in the heated-oil phase, and is compatible with up to 40% oil phase at 4%. 2% alone can emulsify up to 20% oils.
Lamellar Non Ionic emulisifier.
Usuage Rate:
1-4%, 2-4% as O/W emulsifier, >1% as a co-emulsifier, >1% as a texture enhancer
Recommended product pH:
4.0 – 7.0 (Optimum pH: 5.0 – 7.0)
(Outside this range: tendency to destabilize the emulsion and change of color for basic pH. Heliosoft™ can nevertheless be used at a pH slightly outside its range, reinforcing the formula if necessary.
Process :
Incorporation: oil phase• Use minimal-maximal temperature: 75-85°C
• Emulsification: oil phase into water phase
• Use of tooth propeller possible but preferably use a rotor/stator, especially in the case of fluid formulas
• Longer emulsification step can be applied to make the emulsion finer (10 minutes recommended for challenging formulas)
• Cooling step: preferably without thermal shock and under moderate shear (e.g. tooth propeller at moderate speed). Brief use of a shear mixer with a rotor/stator possible for introduction at the end of manufacturing
Incompatibilities:
• Lactobacillus Ferment (preservative): destabilization of the emulsion and inefficient preservation
• Bentonite: destabilization of the emulsion
• Silica: destabilization of the emulsion
• No known incompatibility with other cosmetic ingredients
Formulation tips by manufacturer:
Ingredients known to destabilize cell membranes could also impact the stability of lamellar networks (ethoxylated ingredients or preservative boosters with surfactant properties for example:
• Use of a gelling/suspending agent is recommended for emulsion stability
• In case of oxidation of formula, addition of chelating agent and/or antioxidant is recommended
• Stability of the emulsion reinforced with addition of gelling/suspending agent, thickeners & co-emulsifiers
• Viscosity can be increased with addition of gelling/suspending agent, thickeners, increase of oil phase quantity
• Introduction of preservatives and electrolytes: addition recommended at the end of cooling (lamellar network more robust); may require reinforcement of the formula via the gelling system or a co-emulsifier such as Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
• Use of synthetic gelling agents: to be used at a low percentage incombination with a natural gum (better compatibility with pre-neutralised
gelling agents)
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